On The Road in Bali
WOJ Nieuwenkamp : Bali's first cyclist
Bali is a bicyclist’s dream. The compact size, benign climate, beautiful landscapes and hospitable residents provide the ingredients for a perfect day – or week – on the road. Unfortunately, the road itself can turn this dream into a nightmare. Whether on major highways, where gross vehicular weight is often the sole determinant of right-of-way, or city streets, where a cyclist must contend with motorcycles darting blindly from all sides and mangy dogs barking at his heels, the Balinese “garden paradise” more resembles a jungle.
However, any jungle has paths, which a traveler can follow safely. Bali’s dense network of village roads and rice-field shortcuts provide numerous options for riding between any two points of interest. This book recommends those routes most suitable for cycling: having little traffic, but in good condition and with sufficient roadsigns and landmarks to permit a visitor to navigate easily.
Experiences seldom available to motorized travelers: being surrounded by a kaleidoscope of colors and the infectious rhythms of the gamelan gong orchestra in the midst of a procession; the warmth of the tropical sun tempered by a refreshing mountain breeze; a bewildering succession of fragrances while passing through a village; the explosion of flavor and relief after biting into a juicy mango following a gruelling hill climb, await the cyclist on the backroads of Bali.
This being Bali, the level of comfort and service you will enjoy off the bike is entirely your own choice. Elsewhere, long-distance touring generally involves sleeping in a tent, eating out of cans, and wearing the same clothes for a week. In Bali, a cyclist on the tightest budget can sleep in a comfortable bed, dine in a good restaurant, and even have a change of clothes sent ahead to the next destination. Whether spending lavishly or frugally, the level of hospitality is exceptional. Sweaty, disheveled bikers stumbling into the lobby of a luxury resort can expect a warm welcome and a cold drink, while cyclists wolfing down nasi goreng in roadside stall might be given an extra helping in appreciation of their efforts.
This is not a definitive list of biking routes. Like any good travel guide, Bali By Bike offers only suggestions, and points you in the right direction to begin your own explorations.